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- Strong aluminium frame with 10 year guarantee
- Silver finish greenhouses include a silver finish base plinth (makes installation easier)
- Green finish greenhouses include a green finish base plinth (makes installation easier)
- Toughened safety glass with full height sheets where practical (with no glass overlaps)
- Integral gutter
- Double sliding door
- 1 free roof vent (maximum quantity possible)
- Flashing between the wall and the greenhouse is not supplied
- Eaves height 5'9" (1750mm) including base plinth
- Ridge height 6'6" (1980mm) including base plinth
- Door height 5'9" (1750mm) including base plinth
- Double door width 4'0" (1220mm)
THIS ALUMINIUM GREENHOUSE: This metal greenhouse features a strong aluminium frame which is well braced for extra rigidity. Horticultural glass is available if you want a strong greenhouse at the best price. Toughened glass is best if you are concerned about safety. Although strong, the design is basic with all fixing bolts and glazing clips visible and plenty of struts and cross braces required. PVC bar capping is available in place of the glazing clips. Although not as elaborate as some more expensive greenhouses, if you want a strong greenhouse at a sensible price these aluminium greenhouses are a popular choice.
SILVER FINISH ALUMINIUM: Silver finish is the natural colour of aluminium before it is painted. It is cheaper than painted aluminum but just as strong and durable. An unpainted aluminium greenhouse will gradually oxidise producing fine grey powder forms on the surface of the greenhouse. This is the aluminium's natural self protection and it does not harm the greenhouse. Oxidisation occurs quicker in areas of high pollution or in coastal areas.
POWDER COATED ALUMINIUM: The powder coated finish is more attractive than the stark silver finish aluminium greenhouses. The tough finish also has excellent weathering properties and retains its gloss and colour superbly. A good example of powder coating is the finish on your washing machine. Powder coated aluminium greenhouses have a similar finish.
TOUGHENED GLASS: Toughened glass is the best glazing material for use in greenhouses. It is around 6 times stronger than normal glass so it is less likely to break and when it does break toughened glass breaks into harmless small pieces. This makes toughened glass the best option for all the family including children, pets and the elderly. Toughened glass also strengthens the frame and it is heavy which helps to resist wind. Although size limits apply, toughened glass panes are longer than horticultural glass, with no overlapping glass and fewer joins. Where required, joins are neat in-line H-profile joins. Greenhouse glass is subject to lower visual standards than other more expensive glass and may include blemishes or imperfections which do not adversely affect the performance.
BASE PLINTH: The base plinth makes installation much easier. It is designed to be a portable and prefabricated foundation beam. The plinth features a flat underside to spread the weight of the greenhouse over a larger area. The base plinth can be placed on any flat and level surface including soil, gravel, decking, concrete or paving slabs. It is best to prepare a perimeter footing of concrete or paving slabs for the base plinth to stand on. However, with care the base plinth can be placed on any surface including soil or gravel provided that the ground is flat and level.
BASE ANCHORS - CORNER PEGS: The base plinth includes corner pegs which are designed to be buried in the ground or set in concrete. This is recommended in less sheltered locations. The pegs are used as angle brackets to fix the corners of the base plinth together but they also extend downwards into the ground. If your greenhouse is sited on an existing patio or paved area you can cut the pegs off at ground level. The offcuts can be used to as brackets to help secure the base plinth into the concrete.
TIPS IF HEIGHT IS RESTRICTED: If the height of the host wall is limited it is important to check the height available against the external ridge height of the lean to. The lean to ridge is the highest part of the roof, at the rear. At sites where the wall height is restricted it may be possible to excavate the base area in order to reduce the ground level. This is not always practical at every site as it depends on the surfaces and the ground levels. Be careful to ensure that the greenhouse door opening is unobstructed. If there are doors or windows in the host wall which are enclosed within the lean to you should also be careful to ensure that these can be opened freely.
GREENHOUSE LOCATION: Ideally your greenhouse should have a clear space at least 18" wide on all sides, if possible. This ensures easy access for both installation and future maintenance. In reality this is often not practical and at many sites it is not needed. A reduced clearance is often possible on one or two sides. You should cut back or remove any nearby shrubs and trees. Remember to allow for future growth. The best position for a lean to greenhouse is against a south facing wall and outside the shadow of nearby buildings and trees. A sheltered position is best otherwise additional screening may be advisable. Plants need plenty of water so your greenhouse should be close to a water supply and the site should be well drained.
LENGTH AND WIDTH: Sizes are sometimes rounded to the nearest nominal size for ease of reading but the correct external wall sizes are listed alongside the price. The first dimension listed is the width and the second dimension is the length. The width refers to the sloping walls to each side. The length refers to the front wall. The sizes listed are the external wall sizes. These sizes do not include the roof overhang. Many other suppliers quote the overall roof size which is much larger. All sizes are approximate.